Shock

For the first time in all the years that I travelled to and from this country that we call home, I had a kind of cultural shock. This is the kind of shock people get when finding themselves in a place where everything they know and are used to is different and not necessarily comfortable. Many expatriates undergo a cultural shock when being relocated to another country for work or other reasons and this includes foreigners coming to Africa or Ethiopia as well as Ethiopians going abroad. After the first "honeymoon" weeks or months, during which everything is exotic and exciting, are over, the reality of things not being and working like at home will begin to settle in. People then adjust and move, don't adjust and complain until they leave or throw in the towel, give up and leave again. Over the years I have lived in several different countries and I have always been able to adjust well and live and work comfortably as a so called expat. The country I enjoyed most is Ethiopia
So I was a bit surprised and shocked by my reaction when I returned to Addis Abeba a few weeks ago. I was just returning from South Africa, where I spent some time with my family during the last school break. What a country. It has all the beautiful things that are Africa: the climate, nature, wildlife, ocean beaches, and great outdoor life. It also has a great infrastructure with good roads throughout the country, efficient banking with ATM services in most places, effective mobile telephone systems, etc.; a joy for the visitor. The country is also emerging as the so called rainbow nation from the dark days of apartheid, after going through a difficult and painful process of truth and reconciliation. Not all wounds are healed yet of course but great progress is being made. Sadly, the country also faces great challenges from the high rate of rather brutal and widespread crime. A lot of work lies ahead for the authorities and public to sort this out before the anxiously anticipated 2010 soccer World Cup, which will take place there.
While the road network around the cities intimidated me somewhat at first, I rented a car and we drove to our destinations in the countryside. Driving was really a joy I discovered as the roads were very good and the countryside is wonderful. Road signs indicating directions, distances and traffic warnings were also plenty and I was surprised to pass a few big warning signs. "DANGER - POTHOLES AHEAD" the signs read. I immediately braced myself for what I expected was to come but I couldn't identify the potholes I was warned for. OK there were a few irregularities in the road but nothing compared to what I am used to here or in some of the other countries I have visited. During another drive, cars in front of me slowed down and came to a stand still, as there were road works in progress. The traffic in our lane of the rural tarmac road was signalled to stop and wait for the oncoming traffic to pass. This lasted some 20 minutes or so and I wondered when it was going to be our turn to move on. As it seemed like a long time waiting, none of the other drivers lost their patience and nobody jumped the queue as we undoubtedly would have seen happening back home. Finally it was our turn and as we were able to drive on for the next 10 minutes or so, I now understood the system to allow one lane traffic for quite a few kilometres along a road under construction, without facing oncoming traffic or obstacles. Very efficient and safe, I must say.
After touring the countryside it was time to drive back to the city and to return the car at the airport before checking in for an onward flight. I was a bit nervous I must admit as the traffic into the city and towards the airport was becoming more busy and I didn't want to make a mistake, miss an exit and hence our flight. But there was nothing to worry about. As I mentioned earlier, traffic directions are clear, including "Rental car return" and what happened next upon arrival at the rental car return completely took me by surprise. As I turned the car into the terminal, workers of the car rental office were waiting at a boot ahead of me with a kind of electronic device in their hand. They entered the plate number of the car into the system and as I stopped they greeted me by my name, kindly asked if I had had any problems with the car, checked the level of the fuel gauge, helped us offload our luggage onto a trolley, handed over my payment voucher and wished us a good flight. Five minutes later we indeed checked in for our onward flight. The efficiency was astonishing and I have never seen anything like it before.
After travelling some more in this wonderful country, it was now time to go back home and we were glad to board Ethiopian Airlines on our way to Addis Abeba. We arrived in the evening and had a good sleep after a wonderful holiday experience.
Early the next morning I woke up to take the children to school and that was the beginning of the shock I was to get and which continued to build up over the next few days. The chaos is difficult to describe as it has become almost impossible to reach school in time with all major roads leading to it under construction, with no detours and …… with potholes. And I mean POTHOLES (no traffic warning sign required). The next day it rained a little, adding to the chaos and I dread to imagine what the situation will look like in a few months time when the heavens really open the floodgates.
Don't take me wrong, I see the need for expansion of our roads network and there will be a time that we will enjoy the benefits of wider and more roads. What worries me is the seemingly lack of planning and coordination as well as the delays for reasons that are difficult to understand. And once a road is finally completed, other workers begin breaking it open again to lay down pipes or cables. I know people who live nearby a road that has been under construction for more than a year now and they have no water and telephone already for weeks. Meanwhile the construction of condominiums throughout the city adds to the traffic problems and I wonder what it will look like once the condos are inhabited and all residents need to find their way to school and work in the morning. We will probably need wider roads again by then.
Finding out, that we are now subject to two full days of power rationing, again added to my low mood and so I really suffered a kind of cultural shock, coming from a place where everything seemed to work so well. Luckily I am getting over it as I am finding my way again and remember to appreciate the good things that this country and its people have to offer, like the culture, relationships, the low crime rate, the food and everything that is habesha and that we love. Welcome home.