I follow up on my article of last week, in which I described my experiences during a recent trip to an Asian country, and shared my assumption that visitors to Ethiopia may have similar experiences. Just last week we decided to book a trip we have wanted to make for a long time, namely to Erta Ale and the Danakil Depression in the Afar region. We called up a tour agent who was recommended to us by a friend. He advised us that the month of March is a good time to visit as the temperatures in March are relatively cooler than during the rest of the year. So, we wasted no more time a booked the trip straight away. It was to take three days and two nights, starting from Semera airport. We thus also had to buy an airplane ticket from Ethiopian Airlines, departing at 07.10 am, to arrive an hour later at Semera.
On arrival at Semera we were greeted by the tour agent and two tour guides who would drive us around and take care of us the next few days. With us were two more European couples and we were first taken to a nearby hotel for breakfast while the drivers and a cook went to town to buy the necessary supplies. During breakfast we had the opportunity to introduce ourselves to the rest of the group and around 10.30 am all was ready for departure, with the group divided over two Landcruisers, including the drivers and the cook.
As I mentioned last week, getting to know the person you will fully depend upon over the next few days, goes with a bit of apprehension, as you observe his driving style and test his communication skills.
I admit I got a bit nervous with the driving during the first part of the journey on the Semera – Mekelle road, while the vehicle also had some obvious wheel balancing and alignment issues.
We stopped over for lunch in Afdera, where some of the challenges we were going to meet during the tour began to manifest themselves, namely the heat and the lack of sanitary facilities. Lunch was great though and we moved on to Erta Ale, over a road under construction by the Federal Road Authority. The construction seemed to have been aborted though, so there were many bumpy detours. However, my confidence in our driver was growing as it was obvious he knew the route well and fully mastered his vehicle. We also talked a lot on the way, including with the cook, who had joined us, and we began to develop a pleasant rapport with each other.
Before proceeding to the Erta Ale campsite, we had to make a final detour to make a payment to the local community against an official receipt. Every tour to the volcano must make such payment, which is supposed to support the community but also for the community to manage and maintain the campsite. Hopeful, we proceeded to the campsite, as our excitement grew as we got closer to the volcano and saw smoke plumes rising over the top. Our hearts sank as we arrived at the campsite. While our tour guides worked hard to make our open-air beds ready, we discovered there were no sanitary facilities at all. While there were some structures meant as toilet, they were totally dysfunctional and in a mess. There was also nothing that looked like a structure that could be used as a changing- or washroom. We were left with no option but to make use of the open fields, ladies and gentlemen alike. This did not seem right after the generous fee just paid to the community. Meanwhile coffee, tea and a snack were served by the cook, from a makeshift kitchen, which was a welcome energizer before getting ready to hike to the rim of the volcano. What we experienced and saw there beats all imagination. The powerful blasting and spit firing cones, causing fresh lava to descend, was so impressive, we all could just be still and take it all in under a bright starry sky. In one word, spectacular! Our tour guide then led us safely back over the rocky terrain through the night, back to our campsite where the cook had another surprise in store as he welcomed us with a delicious full three course dinner! We slept under the open sky, catching the occasional shooting star until daybreak when the cook surprised us again with a full and delicious breakfast. We were all amazed with what he produced out of his makeshift kitchen.
After breakfast, off to the Danakil Depression. It was a long rocky ride, but we got there at the end of the afternoon to admire the spectacle of the hot water springs, bursting with so many minerals that cause the most amazing colour displays. On the way back we took a bath in salt water, making us float as we dipped into the warm clear water and witnessed the sun set over the white salt desert surface. Arriving at our new campsite, along the main road, the cook had another full dinner ready. However, here there were also no sanitary facilities at all and we had to find our moments anywhere in the neighbourhood, like the night before, except that this time we were in the middle of a kind of residential area. There was one structure at a school across the road that looked like a latrine but again, it was totally out of order.
And so, we made it through the night, had another early delicious breakfast before embarking on the long journey back to Semera to catch the flight back to Addis Abeba. On the way our tour guides had another surprise in store, and we had a swim in the salty Lake Afrera, completed with a wash off in warm freshwater springs.
We finally made it back to Semera, well in time for a final stop and a farewell drink, before checking in at the airport. I note here that although I normally check in online with Ethiopian Airlines, my experience is that it in fact makes no difference. It has happened more often that not, with international and domestic flights, that I must join the same queue as everybody else to check in my luggage. Baggage drop-off does not seem to work with Ethiopian Airlines, except perhaps at Bole International Airport.
We bid our tour guides and cook farewell with a deep appreciation for the services they gave us. They really looked after our wellbeing and safety and did it seemingly with pleasure, helping each other in a true team spirit. Mind you, it is not an easy job, to provide such services under such challenging circumstances and I salute them for their professionalism.
On the flipside of the coin there remains the disappointing infrastructure, tourists and visitors must deal with. Surely, this country has so much to offer for the international visitor. Why a community, that benefits financially from tourism, does not make any effort to create a clean and comfortable campsite and environment, completely beats me, and I would suggest authorities responsible for tourism to seriously look into this.
P.S. Readers interested in the contact details of our tour guide, may contact me by email.
Ton Haverkort
ton.haverkort@gmail.com
